Tour du Mont Blanc's Most HATED refuge

Okay it’s time to share my unpopular opinion on the Tour du Mont Blanc’s most hated refuge…Refuge de La Croix du Bonhomme.

Now in January, the last few refuges on the circuit are now fully open for booking 2024 (so get to work you self-planners! Or use a service/guided tour to do it for you). Even the guided tours are almost full.

Yes, it’s possible to independently book the TMB hike despite it being the most popular hut to hut hike in Europe (I did.)

Chokepoint

But it’s hard, and the Les Chapieux on the southern stretch area is a big chokepoint and often this is the only place with spots available. It gets so much hate on FB groups due to it’s composting toliet and flies.

Is Bonhomme that bad?

👉 We found the views to be out of this world, reasonably comfortable and it’s the perfect place to set off for the surreal Col des Fours Variant.

The flies thing is fairly ubiquitous around Europe, even in bakery cases so it’s likely that they aren’t that harmful. The outdoor toliet is pretty gross though, but there are indoor facilities (hot water is rare.)

The workers at the refuge literally backpack up the food from the valley most times because the trails are even too wet/snowy for mules.

They can get cranky though - get to dinner on time or else they get really pissy. But the food is tasty and they have good, cheap wine.

Alternatives for more comfort?

If it all seems too much and the other Les Chapeiux refuges are booked (they ALWAYS seem to be) you can take a taxi/van to the village of Bourg St Maurice and stay at a village hotel. Get a taxi to the cheese making house near Mottets to rejoin the trail and avoid the road walking.

Tips for Self-Booking TMB

• https://www.cravetheplanet.com/tour-du-mont-blanc-shortcuts/

• https://www.cravetheplanet.com/tour-du-mont-blanc-luggage-transfer/

• https://www.cravetheplanet.com/tour-du-mont-blanc-cost/

• https://www.cravetheplanet.com/where-to-store-your-luggage-in-les-houches-for-tmb/

✅ Guided TMB Tours Still Available (going fast)

I had a look at my affiliate program and they have a few dates left for the TMB in 2024 ***GUIDED.

• The 4 day TMB highlights has a few spots left in each month and requires a 99 euro deposit to secure a slot : Click here to see dates 

• The 10 day TMB hike has EXTREMELY limited spots open so if you want to do this I’d book asap : Click here to see dates

Next week

Full rundown of an easy to plan Dolomites 3 day hut to hut hike that you should easily be able to book yourself and it’s not popular like the TMB or AV1.

You can find all previous tips here.

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